With a history that dates all the way back to 1837, Tiffany & Co. is well-known for its legacy of bringing masterpieces to life. From exceptional Art Deco designs to the craftsmanship of acclaimed designers such as Elsa Peretti and Jean Schlumberger, the jewelry brand is not only a cultural icon, but it is also one of the United States’ pride and joy in the luxury scene, which France and Italy predominantly rule.
Due to the jewelry house’s rich history and enduring popularity, Tiffany & Co. pieces are prime targets for counterfeiting. Here, Biltmore Loan and Jewelry shares the signs of authentic Tiffany & Co. jewelry from Elsa Peretti and other designers to help you determine whether your pieces are real.
Signs of Original Tiffany & Co. Jewelry By Jean Schlumberger
Jean Schlumberger started working for Tiffany & Co. in 1956 and attracted a large following for his statement pieces. According to Cristina Rodrigo, a Graduate Gemologist of the Gemological Institute of America in New York, Jean Schlumberger loved incorporating colored gemstones and enamelwork into his jewelry. “Schlumberger designs are whimsical and nature-inspired. Think flowers, butterflies, and birds. You will see a high level of craftsmanship in each piece with many hand-fabricated elements,” said Rodrigo. The designer also prominently features diamonds and gold (yellow, white, and rose gold) in his work, especially in the Rope collection.
Authentic Tiffany & Co. jewelry by Schlumberger should include Schlumberger Std., Schlumberger Studios, or Schlumberger as the signature. When checking for authenticity, ensure to pay close attention to the construction of the X motifs, too. They should have clear layers, one line of the X crossing over the other, with well-defined detailing. Furthermore, Tiffany exclusively offers diamonds with excellent cut grades, meaning any Schlumberger piece with diamonds should have superior brilliance and clarity. A cloudy diamond is one of the telltale signs of fake Tiffany & Co. jewelry, especially if the piece is from a recent collection.
Real Tiffany & Co. By Elsa Peretti
The Open Heart. The Bean. The Bone cuff. The Bottle. The unique designs of Elsa Peretti are some of Tiffany’s most popular and recognizable collections. Peretti’s bold and contemporary designs, such as the beloved Bone cuff, have an organic and sensual form. Since working with the brand in 1974, Peretti spearheaded jewelry design by elevating sterling silver and injecting fluidity and tactility into everything she created.
Elsa Peretti’s collections featuring sterling silver jewelry are some of the most counterfeited pieces in the world. Therefore, when authenticating real Tiffany & Co. jewelry by Elsa Peretti, experts always look for the designer signature, specifically the anatomy of Elsa Peretti’s correct signature. For instance, the “E” in Elsa should look similar to a line and the “I” in Peretti should include a dot that extends beyond the cross for the “T.” Unfortunately, Tiffany recently changed the designer signature on all modern Elsa Peretti pieces to simply include “PERETTI” in all caps, which makes it difficult for owners to authenticate jewelry from the secondhand market. In such a case, the most effective way to determine your piece’s origin is to seek the assistance of a professional jewelry appraiser near you.
Authentic Tiffany & Co. By Paloma Picasso
If you admire Tiffany & Co.’s script-like Graffiti collection, thank Paloma Picasso and her creative genius. She began working with Tiffany & Co. in 1979. Initially invited to design a table setting for an exhibition, she soon incorporated the taggings found in New York City subways in her jewelry. Paloma’s Graffiti is one of her most notable and recognizable collections. What’s even more impressive is that her graffiti-inspired pieces were her jewelry debut with Tiffany & Co. Her jewelry designs are intricate and highly detailed, and similar to Schlumberger, she loved using vibrant, colorful gemstones.
Olive Leaf, Paloma’s Studio, and Paloma’s Melody are also iconic collections by Pamela Picasso, who continues to expand her collection with Tiffany today. With genuine Tiffany & Co. jewelry by this renowned artist, her personal signature, which is a combination of cursive and script letters, must be present on the interior of rings and bangles or at the back of necklaces, charms, and earrings. The placement varies depending on the size of the jewelry.
Genuine Tiffany & Co. By Frank Gehry
While many may know Frank Gehry for his spectacular architectural work and accomplishments, few are aware of his Tiffany & Co. jewelry designs. Gehry is illustrious for being the architect behind the Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles, the Olympic Fish Pavilion in Barcelona, and the Neuer Zollhof in Dusseldorf, among countless other unique and picturesque buildings, and his innovative and unconventional approach to architecture echoed within his jewelry designs. Gehry produced many famous collections for Tiffany, including the Fish, Orchid, Torque, and Fold collections. “His architectural aesthetic makes it easy to identify his designs,” said Rodrigo. He features a variety of natural materials in his collections, including ebony wood, onyx, and sterling silver.
Authentic Frank Gehry Tiffany & Co. jewelry is no longer in production, but that has not stopped counterfeiters from copying and faking previous designs because those who missed out on Gehry’s collections are willing to pay top dollar for his designs. When examining fake signatures, you may notice incorrect spacing and fonts. Sometimes, even the designer’s name is misspelled. “Make sure ‘Gehry’ is spelled correctly and engraved with his handwritten signature,” advised Rodrigo.
Where to Authenticate Designer Jewelry
If you are curious about the authenticity of your Tiffany & Co. ring, necklace, bracelet, earrings, or brooch, Biltmore Loan and Jewelry can help you with further investigations to determine whether your jewelry is a legitimate Tiffany piece or just a really good replica (counterfeiters are getting better each year, unfortunately). And, if you are willing to sell, we are also a leading buyer of designer jewelry in Chandler and Scottsdale, Arizona.
To verify the authenticity of new and pre-loved luxury goods, upload images of your jewelry here and receive your appraisal within 24 to 48 hours. You can also drop by our office to expedite the process, as we can authenticate, appraise, and buy your Tiffany jewelry on the spot.