As diamond alternatives gain popularity, consumers have more choices than ever when buying jewelry for themselves or a special someone. Among the most in-demand options are simulants and lab-grown diamonds, both of which promise the brilliance and beauty of natural diamonds without the same environmental impact or price tag.
If you’re considering a diamond alternative, knowing how simulants and lab-grown stones differ will narrow your choice. Let’s break down these distinctions, compare the pros versus cons, and help you choose the option that suits your needs, budget, and values.
What Is a Diamond Simulant?
A diamond simulant is a stone made to imitate the appearance of a natural diamond but differs in chemical and physical composition. Unlike lab-grown diamonds, which the U.S. Federal Trade Commission recognizes as real diamonds, simulants consist of alternative materials that mimic a diamond’s sparkle at a fraction of the cost.
Some of the best and most realistic-looking diamond simulants include:
- Cubic zirconia (CZ)
- Moissanite
- White sapphire
Each option has traits affecting its appearance, durability, and price. For instance, cubic zirconia is widely known for its affordability and convincing sparkle, while moissanite boasts a fire and magnificence that sometimes outshines natural diamonds. On the other hand, white sapphire is a natural gemstone with a softer, more muted gleam—perfect for those seeking an understated alternative.
Creation and Characteristics
Typically produced through synthetic processes, simulants are visually similar to real diamonds but are distinguishable to the trained eyes of gemologists. They rank low on the Mohs hardness scale, meaning they scratch, dull, or break more easily than natural diamonds. However, if you’re looking to achieve the look of a diamond on a budget, simulants are an accessible choice.
What Is a Lab-Grown Diamond?
A lab-grown diamond is a 100% real diamond grown in a controlled laboratory setting instead of forming naturally within the earth. Unlike diamond simulants, lab-grown varieties have the same physical, chemical, and optical qualities as earth-mined diamonds, making them nearly identical to natural diamonds in every way except their origin. Lab-grown diamonds are a controversial yet sustainable option if you’re seeking the beauty of a diamond with less environmental impact.
Note that gemologists can still tell the difference between lab-grown and natural diamonds due to the unique growth patterns and inclusions. Reputable labs like GIA and IGI also laser-inscribe lab-grown stones on the girdle to ensure transparency and prevent unethical sales of lab-grown stones as natural diamonds.
How Lab-Grown Diamonds Are Made
The primary methods for creating lab-grown diamonds are:
- High-Pressure, High-Temperature (HPHT): This process replicates the conditions under which natural diamonds form. Scientists or engineers specializing in crystallography or gemology expose carbon to extreme pressure and heat, allowing a diamond crystal to materialize. HPHT diamonds can sometimes have minimal color differences from mined diamonds, but they are equally durable and brilliant.
- Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD): CVD involves placing a diamond seed in a chamber with carbon-rich gasses. Under high heat, the gasses break down and allow carbon atoms to build up on the seed, gradually forming a diamond. CVD diamonds are clearer and modifiable for improving color.
Certification and Grading
Since lab-grown diamonds are real diamonds, they undergo the same grading processes as natural diamonds. Leading certification bodies like the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the International Gemological Institute (IGI) provide certification for lab-grown diamonds, grading them based on the 4Cs: cut, color, clarity, and carat weight. The 4Cs make it easier to assess quality and value, much like with mined diamonds.
How to Choose Between Diamond Simulants and Lab-Grown Diamonds
Below’s a breakdown of the pros and cons of each option to help you make the best choice.
When to Choose Diamond Simulants
Diamond simulants might be the right choice if you’re looking for the following:
- Budget-friendly alternative: Simulants have a convincing diamond-like appearance at a fraction of the price. For example, moissanite can cost you between $300 and $600 for a one-carat stone, while you may find cubic zirconia pieces under $50 per carat. Prices can vary across retailers and specific stone qualities.
- Fashion jewelry or occasional wear: Simulants are a great option if you often change up your jewelry styles. However, it’s inadvisable to wear simulants every day because they lack the hardness of natural or lab-grown diamonds, which makes them more prone to damage with frequent use.
- Less concern about long-term value: Since simulants are not genuine diamonds, they do not retain value for resale and have no investment potential.
When to Choose Lab-Grown Diamonds
As mentioned, lab-grown diamonds have the same durability, sparkle, and quality as earth-mined diamonds. Consider this option if:
- You want a genuine diamond with full durability: A lab-grown diamond is exactly as hard and durable as a mined diamond, with a 10 on the Mohs hardness scale. It’s perfect for everyday jewelry, such as engagement rings, where longevity matters.
- Resellability is important: Because they’re real diamonds, lab-grown stones retain some value, albeit not a lot. Certification and grading by GIA and IGI are also available, which can assure buyers of quality and authenticity.
- Sustainability is a priority: If you want an eco-friendly diamond alternative, a lab-grown diamond is generally more sustainable than mined ‘blood’ diamonds. Although simulants are also fabricated in laboratories, lab-grown stones may align more closely with values of authenticity and environmental responsibility.
Ultimately, choosing between a simulant and a lab-grown diamond boils down to balancing your budget, durability needs, values, how often you’ll wear the jewelry, and whether you’d be willing to sell the piece for a little bit of money in the future.
Why Lab-Grown and Synthetic Diamonds May Not Be the Forever Choice
While lab-grown diamonds and synthetic stones offer affordability and ethical appeal, they aren’t for everyone. One drawback is their limited or nonexistent resale value. For example, while the lab-grown diamond market may reach $56.94 billion by 2032, it doesn’t change the reality that lab-grown gems significantly drop in value (up to 80%) after purchase and do not appreciate. As for diamond simulants, they have no investment potential.
Some consumers also think lab-grown and synthetic stones lack the rarity that mined diamonds carry, given that they’re made under controlled conditions rather than natural forces over billions of years. The majority of diamond simulants also fail to replicate the depth and glint that natural diamonds achieve, especially under certain lighting. Refer to this article to explore these factors in greater detail.