A cameo is a piece of jewelry, typically a brooch or pendant. Jewelers carve the design into a gem, mother of pearl, shell, or other material, often featuring elaborate portraits or scenes from mythology and bygone eras.
While cameos are no longer as popular as they were in ancient times, their timeless beauty still captures the heart. If you are in the market for unique, handcrafted adornments, cameo jewelry is a classic choice that harkens back to a bygone era of refined elegance and grace.
A Lookback at the History of Cameo Jewelry
Cameo jewelry has historical depth, with variations in form and meaning evolving through the centuries.
Rooted in Egyptian Petroglyphs
Scholars trace its earliest origins to ancient Egypt in 15,000 B.C., where people carved and documented life events into petroglyphs. As the ages passed, these primitive forms of art and non-fictional storytelling were reworked according to trends.
An Invitation of Love
During Alexander the Great’s glorious reign in the 3rd Century B.C., Greek and Roman cameos included images of revered divinities and myths of antiquity. In the Hellenistic period, it was common for women of society to wear cameos to symbolize their willingness to engage in romantic liaisons.
Beloved by the Pope
Even Pope Paul II amassed an impressive collection of cameo rings during the Renaissance. Most of his jewelry featured religious subjects and medieval motifs. Upon the Pope’s passing in 1471, his prized holdings passed into the hands of the illustrious Medici family, great patrons and influences on the growth of humanism and the liberal arts in Florence, Italy.
A Status Symbol 
In the 18th Century, wealthy women wore carved gemstones to display their high status. Plaster molds replicated notable cameo collections. James Tassi, a Scottish gem engraver and modeler, used these molds to recreate glass pastes resembling authentic jewels.
Adorned Powerful Europeans
In the 19th Century, carvers discovered that Cornelian shells were not only durable yet soft, but also easy to carve. Queen Victoria popularized these shelled cameos during her reign. Interest also grew under Napoleon, who commissioned European carvers to craft cameos.
The Era of Costume Jewelry
20th-century costume jewelry mainstreamed cameos made from shells, plastic, and other inexpensive materials. Today’s market offers diverse cameo types, with contemporary designers borrowing from antique designs.
Cameo Jewelry in Pop Culture
Cameo jewelry has made a strong comeback in popular culture. Celebrities like Rihanna, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Cate Blanchett have been photographed wearing stunning cameos, bringing the antique jewelry style back into the spotlight.
The cameo trend has also hit social media. On platforms like Instagram, Pinterest, and TikTok, tutorials on DIY cameos or styling vintage cameos have gained a following. The hashtag “#cameojewelry” has over 33,000 posts on Instagram alone. Indeed, the cameo’s vintage appeal and nostalgic femininity have resonated with a new generation.
Cameo Jewelry Value 
The value of cameo jewelry depends on the following factors:
1. Age and Rarity
Renaissance cameos are highly coveted due to the low number of available pieces. If you are on the hunt for one of these rare antiques, a cameo’s metal mounting can provide a clue: pinchbeck alloy dating to the 18th and 19th Centuries. Gold electroplating only became available in 1840, indicating that plated cameos are not from the mentioned periods.
2. Materials
From precious metals to gemstones and pearls, the materials used influence the longevity and value of cameo jewelry. For instance, agate – although difficult to work with – is one of the most popular stones used in cameos, as it highlights a carver’s skill and talent. Cameos made of agate or other stones that rank high on the Mohs hardness scale will last longer than cheaper pieces made from shells or plastic. You can discern whether a cameo is high-quality by placing a hot needle against it. If it melts, it is likely made from plastic or shells. However, some antique cameos made from shells may command slightly higher prices (if they are still intact) since they date back to the 19th Century.
3. Quality and Image
Once you confirm that your cameo is a genuine antique made from high-quality materials, you must examine it for signs of damage. Hold it up against a light source to check for cracks. If you see three or more layers of color and multiple subjects (metamorphic image), you likely have a valuable cameo in your possession.
4. Setting
Remounted or reframed cameo jewelry is less valuable. The setting should be unique depending on the period it came from. For example, most cameos from the Victorian era have simple and confined frames, unlike the bejeweled versions that followed several years later.
If your cameo checks some of these boxes – antique, made of gemstone, finely carved, and/or still in its original setting – it could fetch a high resale value, depending on the current cameo jewelry market.
How to Identify and Buy Cameo Jewelry 
So you’ve fallen in love with cameo jewelry’s romantic history and royalesque beauty. How do you find an authentic, quality piece to start or add to your collection? Here are some tips:
- Look for details like the carving depth, precision, and subject matter. Authentic cameos will have deep, intricate carvings, especially the hair and facial features (if the image is a person). Common subjects are Greco-Roman figures, religious motifs, or nature-inspired scenes. Avoid cameos with rough, uneven carving or those depicting modern subjects.
- Check the material. Shell, stone, and lava are the standard “canvases” of cameo jewelry. Shell cameos are lightweight, while stone cameos are hefty. Hold the cameo up to a light – shell cameos appear translucent, while stone cameos are opaque. Lava cameos are also lightweight but vary depending on the source. For instance, lava rock carvings from Mt. Vesuvius range in color, from off-white and yellow to different shades of gray. Some are also dyed in deeper colors.
- Examine the setting and backing. Quality cameos have secure metal settings, including “C-clasp” pins on the backs of brooches.
- Buy from reputable dealers. Only purchase cameos from antique stores, auction houses, or jewelers specializing in antique, vintage, or estate jewelry. As for online marketplaces, check seller reviews and credentials.
- When in doubt, consult an expert. If you recently purchased cameo jewelry or own a few you want to sell, get an appraisal from Biltmore Loan and Jewelry. We appraise, buy, and accept jewelry as collateral for an instant loan in Phoenix, Arizona.
From ancient Roman carvings to antique Victorian pendants, cameo motifs have a rich heritage spanning centuries. While cameos may seem old-fashioned to some, these carved keepsakes remain cherished by many jewelry aficionados. Whether an heirloom passed down or uncovered at a flea market, each cameo tells a story. The next time you see one, take a moment to admire the artistry. Cameo jewelry is as timeless as the muses, goddesses, and other figures they depict.