If you own, inherit, or come across a piece signed “Oscar Heyman,” you’re looking at a heritage item from one of the most technical jewelers in American history. Oscar Heyman & Brothers has been manufacturing jewelry in New York City since 1912, and their work rivals the finest pieces from Europe’s best houses. Whether sold under their own name or designed anonymously for brands like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Tiffany & Co., every Oscar Heyman creation holds a standard of excellence that few jewelers can match.
The Founding Brothers and Their Legacy
Oscar Heyman and his brothers immigrated to New York from Eastern Europe in the early 1900s. Before founding their firm in 1912, Oscar and Nathan Heyman worked for Fabergé in Latvia, where they received training in platinum-smithing and stone setting. From the outset, they established rigorous craftsmanship standards and maintained complete control over every stage of production under their own roof.
The Heymans built a full-scale workshop that included jewelers, polishers, setters, engravers, and lapidaries. The brothers believed that each piece should be assembled with surgical-level accuracy. Their process has not changed since. Every Oscar Heyman jewel still passes through more than 30 specialized stations in a single Manhattan facility.
Oscar Heyman Jewelry Characteristics and Construction Methods
Oscar Heyman’s self-appointed “old world” approach is one of the reasons collectors view each piece as timeless rather than period-bound. Expect to see:
- Platinum or 18K yellow gold, with platinum dominating their earlier decades
- Hand-fabricated components rather than cast parts
- Invisible settings
- Knife-edge platinum wire used for structure and stone separation
- A visible item number and hallmark stamped in unobtrusive areas
Unlike Cartier’s Love or Tiffany’s Lock, Oscar Heyman doesn’t have design signatures. Instead of trying to define a recognizable style, they let the materials inspire their work.
Collaborations With Legendary Brands
One reason an Oscar Heyman piece might not have its name inscribed is because the firm made jewelry for some of the world’s most recognizable luxury houses. Over the years, they produced pieces for:
- Cartier
- Van Cleef & Arpels
- Tiffany & Co.
- Black, Starr & Frost
- Marcus & Co.
- Shreve, Crump & Low
These houses used Oscar Heyman to bring complicated designs to life. Many of the finest floral, ballerina, and invisibly set creations sold under those brands came from Oscar Heyman’s New York workshop.
In some cases, buyers may find Oscar Heyman serial numbers inside unsigned vintage pieces from Tiffany or Cartier, revealing the true maker behind the design. For example, an unsigned brooch sold by Tiffany in the 1950s may bear an internal serial number starting with “OH” or a production code unique to Oscar Heyman.
Gemstone Quality and Sourcing
Oscar Heyman has always placed gemstone selection at the center of its process. Their gem-buying office operates independently and sources stones directly from cutters and miners worldwide. This practice dates back to the 1930s, when Oscar Heyman began importing sapphires from Sri Lanka, rubies from Burma, and emeralds from Colombia without third-party brokers.
If you’re fortunate enough to inspect their designs up close, you’ll notice the brand’s penchant for the highest quality, vibrant colored stones, including but not limited to:
- Burmese rubies with fine “pigeon blood” saturation
- Ceylon sapphires in medium to medium-dark blues
- Colombian emeralds with intense green tones and minimal treatment
- Fancy colored diamonds, especially yellows and pinks
- Calibré-cut sapphires and rubies in invisible or channel settings
Oscar Heyman never uses low-quality or heavily treated stones. They have a history of matching each stone’s color and clarity, and their meticulous production standards prevent the use of dull or poorly cut gems. This level of sourcing places Oscar Heyman in the same category as houses known for exceptional colored stones, such as Chopard, Boucheron, or Harry Winston.
Oscar Heyman Designs Worth Collecting
Collectors are willing to pay a premium for authentic Oscar Heyman pieces. If you’re looking to buy or sell, pay attention to these categories:
1. Floral Brooches
Known for iris, lily, pansy, and orchid motifs, these intricate brooches showcase Oscar Heyman’s prowess for multi-stone-setting and structural design. The platinum is barely visible, so your eyes go straight to the glittering, scrupulously set gems. Floral brooches released between the 1950s and 1970s are the most coveted.
2. Ballerina Rings
Featuring baguette-cut diamonds fanned around a colored center stone, ballerina rings by Oscar Heyman resemble a dancer’s skirt. The firm manufactures these rings with extremely tight tolerances between stones, ensuring minimal gapping and superior sparkle.
3. Invisible Set Jewelry
The firm’s most complex creations give the illusion of floating gemstones. Oscar Heyman never outsources the invisible setting process to outside workshops, unlike many other brands. Their jewelers cut and calibrate each stone to specific dimensions, allowing them to fit perfectly edge to edge and form continuous rows of sparkle.
“We’ve had an in-house lapidary since before 1930,” explains Tom Heyman, co-President of the company and a third-generation family member, which “Supports our work in making the finest colored stone jewelry.”
4. Art Deco and Retro Era Pieces
If you own or are seeking Oscar Heyman pieces from the 1920s through the 1940s, look for platinum filigree, sugarloaf cabochons, and bold color combinations. These decades demonstrated how Oscar Heyman adapted to changing design eras while maintaining (and even improving) their high technical standards.
Signatures and Authentication
Many Oscar Heyman have the following:
- An item number
- “Oscar Heyman & Bros.” or “Oscar Heyman”
- A two-digit code for the year of manufacture
However, not every piece has these signatures. When the firm worked as a subcontractor, they engraved pieces with numerical codes instead. If you’re unsure whether your jewelry came from Oscar Heyman’s workshop, seek an appraiser with experience in estate and high jewelry, such as the GIA-accredited professionals here at Biltmore Loan and Jewelry.
In the secondary market, authenticated Oscar Heyman jewelry resells for high prices, especially if linked to records in the company’s design archives.
Where to Find Oscar Heyman Jewelry Today
Remaining privately held and family-run, Oscar Heyman continues to produce jewelry under its name, distributed through select luxury retailers. However, most collectors look for their vintage and estate pieces, which you’ll find through:
- High-end resale boutiques and estate jewelers
- Auction houses such as Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Bonhams
- Specialty resale firms or online showrooms
Thinking About Selling or Borrowing Against Oscar Heyman Jewelry?
If you own a piece by Oscar Heyman, it may be worth far more than standard gold or diamond jewelry. Biltmore Loan and Jewelry understands the heritage and construction methods behind these luxury pieces. Our experts appraise Oscar Heyman jewelry based on current market value and demand, which encompasses rarity, gemstone quality, and original provenance. Read How to Prepare Jewelry for a High-Value Appraisal for a complete guide.
You can bring in your jewelry for a confidential evaluation today. Whether you want to sell Oscar Heyman jewelry or use it as security for a short-term loan in Phoenix, we’ll explain your options during your visit. We welcome walk-ins and special appointments at our Scottsdale location.
Write to us, call 480-991-5626, or drop by 10830 N Scottsdale Road to get cash for vintage Oscar Heyman pieces.